The Hair Growth
It should be explained that in most mammals, hair does not grow continuously, but undergoes a cycle of activity involving alternate periods of growth and rest. The hair growth cycle can be divided into three main stages, namely:
(i) the growth phase known as anagen, during which the hair follicle penetrates deep into the dermis with the cells of the bulb dividing rapidly and differentiating to form the hair, PA0 (ii) the transitional stage known as catagen, which is heralded by the cessation of mitosis, and during which the follicle regresses upwards through the dermis and hair growth ceases, PA0 (iii) the resting stage known as telogen, in which the regressed follicle contains a small secondary germ with an underlying ball of tightly packed dermal papilla cells. PA0 i. an effective amount of from 0.001 to 99% by weight of a hair growth promoter chosen from glutamine derivatives having the structure (1): ##STR1## where R.sup.1 is chosen from: (i) H--, PA0 ii. from 1 to 99.99% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle for the hair growth promoter. PA0 i. Examples of other substances which themselves possess the ability to stimulate or increase hair growth include, for example: PA0 ii. .alpha.-1,4 esterified disaccharides described by Choay S. A. in EP-A-O 064 012, having the structure (3): ##STR3## where PA0 iii. Minoxidil glucuronides, as described by Unilever in EP-0 242 967, PA0 iv. Minoxidil sulphates, as described by The Upjohn Co. in WO 86/04231, and PA0 v. Minoxidil, and other derivatives thereof as described by The Upjohn Co, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,139,619. PA0 vi. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or salts thereof, as described by Redken Laboratories, Inc. in U.S. Pat. No. 4,814,351. PA0 vii. Direct proteoglycanase inhibitors, such as 1,10-phenanthroline, as described by Unilever in EP-0 277 428. PA0 viii. Glycosaminoglycanase inhibitors, as described by Unilever in EP-0 277 428, such as aldonolactones and esterified aldonolactones, PA0 ix. Glycosaminoglycanase inhibitors, as described by Unilever in EP 0 277 428, such as monosaccharides and esterified monosaccharides, PA0 x. Glycosaminoglycan chain cellular uptake inhibitors, as described by Unilever in EP 0 277 428, such as hexuronic acid and esters thereof. PA0 xi. Chemical inhibitors of glycosidase activity, as described by Unilever in EP 0 334 586, chosen from lactams, PA0 xii. Chemical activators of protein kinase C enzymes, as described by Unilever in EP 0 334 585 chosen from diacylglycerols, PA0 xiii. Glycosaminoglycanase inhibitors, as described by Unilever in EP 0 348 184, chosen from aldonomonolactone or alduronomonolactone derivatives, PA0 xiv. Glycosaminoglycanase inhibitors, as described by Unilever in EP 0 348 184, chosen from acylated monosaccharides, PA0 xv. Esters of pyroglutamic acid, as described by Lever Brothers Company in U.S. Pat. No. 4,774,255, PA0 xvi. hexosaccharic acids or an acylated hexosaccharic acids, or salts or esters thereof, as described by Unilever in EP 378 388 PA0 xvii. aryl-substituted ethylenes as described by Unilever in EP 403 238, PA0 xviii. N-acylated amino acids as described by Unilever in EP 415 598. PA0 alkyl sulphates, such as sodium lauryl sulphate [eg. EMPICOL CX available from Albright & Wilson], and triethanolaminde lauryl sulphate [eg. EMPICOL TL40/T, available from Albright & Wilson]. PA0 alkylether sulphates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate [eg. EMPICOL ESB70, available from Albright & Wilson]. PA0 alkyl sulphonates, such as sodium alkane (C.sub.13-18) sulphonate [eg. HOSTAPUR SAS 30, available from Hoechst]. PA0 alkylaryl sulphonates, such as sodium alkyl benzene sulphonate [eg. TEEPOL CM44, available from Shell]. PA0 olefin sulphonates, such as sodium olefin sulphonate (C.sub.5-18) [eg. HOSTAPUR OS, available from Hoechst]. PA0 acyl sarcosinates, having the structure: (51) ##STR7## where R.sup.3 is chosen from C.sub.6-14 alkyl, and M is a counterion chosen from alkali metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium such as alkanolammonium. PA0 acyl tautides, having the structure (52): ##STR8## where R.sup.4 is chosen from C.sub.8-18 alkyl PA0 acyl isethionates, having the structure (53): ##STR9## where R.sup.5 is chosen from C.sub.8-18 alkyl. PA0 monoalkyl sulphosuccinates, having the structure (54): ##STR10## where R.sup.6 is chosen from C.sub.10-20 alkyl. PA0 sodium lauryl sulphosuccinate [eg. EMPICOL SLL, available from Albright & Wilson]. PA0 magnesium alkyl sulphosuccinate [eg. ELFANOL 616 Mg, available from AKZO]. PA0 sodium lauryl ethoxysulphosuccinate [eg. EMPICOL SDD, available from Albright & Wilson]. PA0 coconut monoethanolamide ethoxysulphosuccinate [eg. EMPICOL SGG]. PA0 disodium lauryl polyglycolether sulphosuccinate [eg. SURTAGENE S30, available from CHEM-Y]. PA0 polyethyleneglycol sulphosuccinate [eg. REWOPOL SBFA 30, available from REWO]. PA0 dialkyl sulphosuccinates, having the structure (55): ##STR11## where R.sup.7 and R.sup.8 are the same or different, and are chosen from C.sub.6-14 alkyl. PA0 acyl lactylates, having the structure (56): ##STR12## where R.sub.9 is chosen from C.sub.6-16 alkyl, and n is 1 or 2. PA0 acylated .alpha.-amino acids, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate eg. ACYLGLUTAMATE LS-11, available from Ajinomoto Co. Inc]. PA0 ethyl carboxlates, such as alkyl C.sub.12-14 O(EO).sub.4 OCH.sub.2 CO.sub.2 Na [eg. AKYPO RLM 38, available from Akzo]. PA0 monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as dioctyl phosphate. PA0 Alkyl betaines, having the structure (57): ##STR13## where R.sup.1 is C.sub.1-16 alkyl. PA0 Alkylamidopropyl betines, having the structure (58): ##STR14## PA0 Alkylamphoglycinates or Alkylamphopropionates having the structure (59): ##STR15## where R.sup.11 is chosen from H, CH.sub.2 COO.sup.- and (CH.sub.2).sub.2 COO.sup.-, and R.sup.111 is chosen from CH.sub.2 COO.sup.- and (CH.sub.2).sub.2 COO.sup.- PA0 Sultaines, having the structure (60): ##STR16## where R.sup.2 is chosen from C.sub.12-16 alkyl alkylamido groups. PA0 (i) Sterilisation PA0 (ii) Chemical Preservative PA0 (iii) Water activity depressants
The initiation of a new anagen phase is revealed by rapid proliferation in the germ, expansion of the dermal papilla and elaboration of basement membrane components. The hair cycle is then repeated many times until, as a consequence of the onset of male pattern baldness, most of the hair follicles spend an increasing proportion of their time in the telogen stage, and the hairs produced become finer, shorter, and less visible; this is known as terminal to vellus transformation.